Linda H. Dixon, MD
 Vegetable dyes are not natural. They are synthetic organic pigments
used to dye vegetables artificially to brighter colors. They are
used to make oranges look MORE orange. To make margarine look
yellow, like butter. But they are far from natural. The most natural
pigments we can use in our profession are iron oxides. Pigments
found in vegetables in nature are not used in permanent makeup.
Spinach, carrots and beets are colorful but not useful for tattooing.
No lawsuits have been filed with iron oxide based pigments, unlike
so-called "vegetable dyes" or synthetic organic pigments.
Inorganic Pigments Iron oxides (Fe2O3 and Fe3O4) lack a carbon
molecule and are therefore "inorganic". Iron oxides
in nature (dirt) are often found in association with toxic metals
like lead, arsenic, mercury, antimony and selenium. Therefore,
the FDA has regulated cosmetic colorants so the level of toxic
metal present are below certain percentages in order to be used
safely.
Synthetic iron oxides are manufactured to eliminate
the contamination of naturally occurring iron oxides. These metals
are basically inert, although iron oxide blacks (magnetite) do
have magnetic properties. Iron oxides are a softer metal than
titanium dioxide.Iron oxide molecules are crystals and are in
different shapes. Some are spherical, others are rhomboids and
yet others look like a pencil shaped crystal (long and narrow).
Ultraviolet light can affect the crystalline structure and result
in loss of color activity. Light fastness or "reflectance"
describes a particle's ability to reflect light at a certain wavelength.
Most synthetic iron oxides are manufactured in the visible light
spectrum and have maintain good reflectance. Examples of the endurance
of iron oxides are the cave paintings which have endured thousands
of years in darkness.
Particle Size
It is a mistaken belief that pigment particles are 6 microns or
greater. The fact is that the average iron oxide particle size
is less than one micron. However, the particles are attracted
to each other and form "agglomerates". When the particles
are measured in a suspension it is common to get a particle size
measurement of 1-20 microns because the agglomerates are being
measured in addition to the individual particles. Although iron
oxides are inorganic, they are often dispersed in glycerin or
alcohol which are organic substances.
Carbon Black
Common in inks used for tattooing, the carbon black particle is
usually "amorphous" which mean without shape. Some of
these particles are a tiny .03 microns. This means it is from
10-20 timessmaller in size than an iron oxide pigment particle.
And carbon black is soluble in liquids and therefore becomes an
INK! My personal belief is that this ultra-small size combined
with the solubility is why we will often see migration or "bleeding"
of carbon black inks into surrounding tissues.
An example of carbon black ink is HIGGINS India Ink. Because lead
is no longer legal in the U.S. as an additive to carbon black,
even India Ink or Pelikan Ink have lost their "black blackness".
Carbon black was illegal for use in cosmetics in the United States
because of a case of blindness that resulted from its use in mascara.
Carbon black is legal in other countries, and is used widely in
the US by tattooists. Now high grade furnace black is approved for use in cosmetics.
Solubility
By definition, a pigment is a particle and NOT
soluble in solution. If a colorant dissolves in solution then
it becomes a dye. Various dispersal agents such as glycerin, ethyl
alcohol, Witch Hazel, water, castor oil, propylene glycol and
others are used to keep the particles from forming clumps.Remember
that these particles are weakly attracted to each other.
Organic
Organic pigments are frequently the culprits
in allergic reactions in permanent makeup. Often marketed as "vegetable
dyes", consumers are misled to believe they are "natural".
But they are not. Rarely organic colors such as "coal tar"
have been determined to have undesirable effects including causing
cancer. But this is an exception. Therefore, whether a color is
organic or inorganic does not determine the safety of that color.
One manufacturer feels strongly FOR organic pigments and yet another
feels strongly FOR iron oxides. Just remember that "bright"
colors are organic in origin and earth colors are inorganic. Carmine
is a naturally occurring red pigment from cochineal extract (beetles)in
South America. It is added to some iron oxide pigment lip colors
by other manufacturers. KolorSource™ pigments use KOSHER
ingredients for their dispersal agents.
Properties of pigments
The smaller a pigment becomes the more translucent
it becomes. This is true of even the most opaque pigment, titanium
dioxide.
Science is making "nano particles" which are a thousand
times smaller than "micronsized" particles. The larger
the particle size the more light it will reflect and the more
opaque it will become.
Adverse Effects
Iron oxides contain nickel and a large percentage
of the population tested is allergic to nickel (17.9%). Tattoo
needles,including surgical grade stainless steel needles, contain
nickel (8.2%). So sensitivity to pigments can and does occur,
even to iron oxides. The fact that organic colorants do not contain
nickel is good. However, the inert iron oxides are very safe despite
the presence of nickel. Organic pigments can cause severe allergic
reactions and granulomas that are difficult to treat. Fortunately,
this is rare. Most adverse effects come from sensitivity to antibiotic
ointments applied after the permanent cosmetic procedure.
Iron Oxide pigments
In nature, iron oxides exist in reds, yellows,
blacks, ochre, umbre and burnt umber. Synthetic iron oxides come
in several shades of red, yellow and black. A pigment has both
a "top tone" and an "undertone". So in addition
to dealing with the undertones in the client's skin, you must
take into account the "undertone" in the pigment.
Titanium Dioxide
Compared to iron oxides, titanium dioxide is
very opaque. However, although white in appearance, it also has
undertones (DuPont) which may be blue on the light spectrum in
some cases. It is often mixed with blacks, reds and yellows to
lighten (tint) the original hue (color) of the cosmetic color.
Loss of color over time
a) Exposure to sunlight or UV light b) Body
breaks down foreign bodies when possible and eliminates them
c) Use of glycolics, Retin-A and other new products for wrinkle
treatments are having an adverse effect on permanent makeup.
Allergic Reactions: More Common in Organic pigments
Allergic reactions to pigments are more commonly
seen in organic pigments. Dr. Norman Goldstein, a Hawaii
dermatologist, discovered over 25 years ago that the reactions
to red pigments used in tattoos were actually phototoxicity reactions
to the YELLOW "Cadmium sulfide" added to the reds. Soldiers
and sailors exposed to the Hawaiian sun would notice their tattoos
getting raised and puffy in the areas of RED color.
Often times a claim of an "allergic reaction" is made
after lip color when in fact the culprit may be from an outbreak
of fever blisters or overworking the lips with the needles. Bumps
will occur in this case. This should NOT be mistakenly diagnosed
as an allergic reaction. Because
litigation is frequent with allergic reactions, always have your
client get a small punch biopsy by their dermatologist to determine
the cause of their reaction.
There is no perfect treatment for allergic reactions. Some have
tried overtattooing with salt water or Kenalog, others utilize
topical or systemic steroids. Still others use CO2 laster because
lasers have been observed to turn dark pigments green which is
irreversible (Dr. Mark Meyers, MD, Arizona and Dr. Randy Wong,
MD, Hawaii). Injections of steroids locally usually wear off and
the reaction will flare again. The skin must be opened up so the
pigment can be removed. Surgery is sometimes needed to control
or remove the skin involved in the allergic reaction.
There are advantages to both inorganic and organic color additives
(pigments).
by Linda H. Dixon MD |
