Information about pigments we
use in P.C. everyday. by Linda H. Dixon, MD
Inorganic
Pigments Iron oxides (Fe2O3 and Fe3O4) lack a carbon molecule
and are therefore "inorganic". Iron oxides in nature
(dirt) are often combined
with toxic metals like lead, arsenic, mercury, antimony and selenium.
The FDA has regulated cosmetic colorants so the level of toxic
metal present are below certain percentages in order to be used
safely.
Synthetic iron oxides are manufactured to eliminate
the contamination of naturally occurring iron oxides. These metals
are basically inert, although iron oxide blacks (magnetite) do
have magnetic properties. Iron oxides are a softer metal than
titanium dioxide.Iron oxide molecules are crystals and are in
different shapes. Some are spherical, others are rhomboids and
yet others look like a pencil shaped crystal (long and narrow).
Ultraviolet light can affect the crystalline structure and result
in loss of color activity. Light fastness or "reflectance"
describes a particle's ability to reflect light at a certain wavelength.
Most synthetic iron
oxides are manufactured in the visible light spectrum and have
maintain good reflectance. Examples of the endurance of iron oxides
are the cave paintings which
have endured thousands of years in darkness.
Particle Size
It is a mistaken belief that pigment particles are 6 microns or
greater. The fact is that the average iron oxide particle size
is less than one micron. However, the particles are attracted
to each other and form "agglomerates". When the particles
are measured in a suspension it is common to get a particle size
measurement of 1-20 microns because the agglomerates are being
measured in addition to the individual particles. Although iron
oxides are inorganic, they are often dispersed
in glycerin or alcohol which are organic substances.
Carbon Black
Common in inks used for tattooing, the carbon
black particle is without shape or "amorphous" and the
size is a tiny .03 microns. This means it is from 10-20 timessmaller
in size than an iron oxide pigment particle. My personal belief
is that this ultra-small size is why we will often see migration
or "bleeding" of pigment into surrounding tissues when
using carbon black based inks.
An example of carbon black ink is HIGGINS India Ink. Because lead
is no longer legal in the U.S. as an additive to carbon black,
even India Ink or Pelikan Ink have lost their "black blackness".
Carbon black is illegal for use in cosmetics in the United States
because of a case of blindness that resulted from its use in mascara.
Carbon black is legal in other countries, and is used widely in
the US by tattooists. Although it is safe to use when alcohol
is present to prevent infections, the law remains to be changed
in the U.S.
Solubility
By definition, a pigment is a particle and NOT
soluble in solution. If a colorant dissolves in solution then
it becomes a dye. Various dispersal agents such as glycerin, ethyl
alcohol, Witch Hazel, water, castor oil, propylene glycol and
others are used to keep the particles from forming clumps.Remember
that these particles are weakly attracted to each other.
Organic
Many colorant molecules are organic because
they contain a carbon molecule. You don't have to look any further
than your dinner table to find examples of organic
colors. Spinach, carrots, tomatoes, beets and parsley are all
"organic" colors. We eat these products every day and
they are very safe. Rarely organic colors such as "coal tar"
have been determined to have undesirable effects including causing
cancer. But this is an exception. Therefore, whether a color is
organic or inorganic does not determine the safety of that color.
One manufacturer feels strongly FOR organic pigments and yet another
feels strongly FOR iron
oxides. Just remember that "bright" colors are organic
in origin and earth colors are inorganic. Carmine is a naturally
occurring red pigment from cochineal extract (beetles)in South
America. It is added to some iron oxide pigment lip colors. KolorSource™
pigments use KOSHER glycerin or propylene glycol for peace of
mind.
Properties of pigments
The smaller a pigment becomes the more translucent
it becomes. This is true of even the most opaque pigment, titanium
dioxide.
Science is making "nano particles" which are a thousand
times smaller than "micronsized" particles. The larger
the particle size the more light it will reflect and the more
opaque it will become.
Adverse Effects
Iron oxides contain nickel and a large percentage
of the population tested is allergic to nickel (17.9%). Tattoo
needles,including surgical grade stainless steel needles, contain
nickel (8.2%). So sensitivity to pigments can and does occur,
even to iron oxides. The fact that organic colorants do not contain
nickel is good. However, the inert iron oxides are very safe despite
the presence of nickel. Organic pigments can cause severe allergic
reactions and granulomas that are difficult to treat. Fortunately,
this is rare. Most adverse effects come from sensitivity to antibiotic
ointments applied after the permanent cosmetic procedure.
IIron Oxide Colors
In nature, iron oxides exist in reds, yellows,
blacks, ochre, umbre and burnt umber. Synthetic iron oxides come
in several shades of red, yellow and black. A pigment has both
a "top tone" and an "undertone". So in addition
to dealing with the undertones in
the client's skin, you must take into account the "undertone"
in the pigment.
Titanium Dioxide
Compared to iron oxides, titanium dioxide is
very opaque. However, although white in appearance, it also has
undertones (DuPont) which may be blue on the light spectrum in
some cases. It is often mixed with blacks,
reds and yellows to lighten (tint) the original hue (color) of
the cosmetic color.
Loss of color over time
a) Exposure to sunlight or UV light b) Body
breaks down foreign bodies when possible and eliminates them
c) Use of glycolics, Retin-A and other new products for wrinkle
treatments are having an adverse effect on permanent makeup.
There are advantages to either inorganic or organic colorants
Allergic reactions to red pigments used in tattoos were
actually allergic reactions to the
Yellow "Cadmium sulfide" added to the reds. Often times
a claim of an "allergic reaction" is made after lip
color when in fact the culprit was from overworking the lips with
the needles. Bumps will occur in this case. This should NOT be
mistakenly diagnosed as an allergic reaction. A tiny tissue “punch”
biopsy is needed to confirm ANY suspected allergic reaction. The
treatment for allergic reactions ranges from overtattooing with
salt water or Kenalog,to topical or systemic
steroids to laser removal attempts. Injections of steroids locally
usually wear off and the reaction will flare again.
Inorganic
Pigments Iron oxides (Fe2O3 and Fe3O4) lack a carbon molecule
and are therefore "inorganic". Iron oxides in nature
(dirt) are often combined
